Loose Leash Walking - Emails to Betty
Hi Betty,
First of all let me say that it is so much easier for me to show this rather than trying to explain it in writing. I hope you will be able to visualize what I'm talking about. There is also a lot of info out there on the internet on the subject. Clicker Solutions has quite a few articles by people, all with slightly different perspectives. You might want to check them out. As is the case when setting out to teach any new behavior, the first step is to define for yourself exactly what that behavior is. To some people loose leash walking equates to heeling. To some people loose leash walking means the dog walking somewhere to your left side. This is the biggest reason that there are so many different ways to teach a behavior - everyone has their own definition of what that behavior is.
When I talk about loose leash walking, which I cue as "let's go", I don't care if the dog is on my left side or on my right side or in front as long as there is slack in the leash. Here again, you need a definition, your own definition, and it needs to be specific enough that your dog can understand it. I know one person whose definition says that if the metal snap on the end of the leash is not pointing straight down that is not a loose leash. Another person may be happy if the dog is just not pulling "too hard". To me, this latter one is too subjective for the dog to clearly understand.
My own definition is this: Whenever the leash makes an absolutely straight line from my hand to the dog's collar, the leash is not loose.
Tight
H
\
D
Loose
H
(
D
Even if the pressure is very slight, the dog can feel the difference between
no pressure and a little pressure. Anytime the leash is a straight line, there
IS a little bit of pressure against the dog's collar.
So - on to "be a tree". Basically all the phrase means is that whenever, and the VERY INSTANT that the leash is no longer loose, you, the handler, become like a tree. You literally plant yourself. This does not mean that you gradually come to a halt while being pulled several steps towards whatever the dog is suddenly interested in. No, we're talking Lot's wife here - in the blink of an eye turned into an unmoving pillar of salt! Although she doesn't favor this technique herself, Sue Ailsby writes a very good description of how to perform it and how to practice it before using it with the dog. It's on the clicker solutions web page.
Now, look back at that paragraph and burn these words into your brain! WHENEVER AND THE VERY INSTANT. "the very instant" is important because of the same reason that the click of the clicker is so valuable in communicating with your dog. Your becoming a tree is marking the behavior of tightening the leash. To make it even more clear to the dog, I pair the action with what is termed an NRM or non-reward marker. I don't know if Stacey has talked about this concept yet or indeed, if she uses it. Some trainers do, some don't. Basically it's a signal to the dog that they are not on the right track. That the behavior being marked is not one that will result in reward. The one I use is "oops!" What you use is up to you but I advise against using "no". Now, "whenever" is important because if a tight leash works sometimes for the dog, you have put the behavior of tight leash on a variable schedule of reinforcement which makes it stronger and less susceptible to extinction.
Now for the second half of the equation! Once you have planted yourself, just wait. Say nothing, don't try to pull the dog back. After some period of time the dog will stop straining at the end of the leash and begin to turn back towards you. THE VERY INSTANT that the leash again becomes loose, mark and reward. You can do this with a click and treat or you can use a verbal marker and the reward is to again begin moving forward. After all, wanting to go forward is why the leash got tight in the first place and again having the opportunity to move forward is typically reward enough! Now for those folks who have a different standard for what loose leash walking means to them, I would insert here the method for gradually raising the criteria and shaping the wanted behavior.
I also use what is called a "keep going signal". This helps the dog learn the cue for the behavior and encourages them to continue. Basically it is the repetition of the cue combined with quiet praise.
This is getting long and my fingers are wearing out so I will write you about the practice exercises of walking with a goal and penalty yards in another installment. To close I will try to put it all together for you. This is where the demonstration would make things so much easier and quicker!
I start out with the dog sitting at my left side with the leash loop over my left thumb and the leash running down through my closed fist, which is held firmly against my waist. In a happy voice I say the dog's name and "let's go". As long as the leash is loose, I am moving forward, constantly using my keep going signal. "Good let's go! What a very good dog! Gooood let's go! Oh, you are such an excellent dog!", etc. If the leash becomes tight, "Ooops!", be a tree. When the leash again becomes loose, "Good! Let's go", and again keep going signal. You may substitute click and treat if you wish. This is useful particularly if your goal is to shape to a higher criteria. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Please recognize that like any aspect of training, you are using a mechanical skill. Your timing will not be perfect. But the more you do it the better you will get at it and the result will be your dog getting better at it. I hope this is helpful. I'll write the remainder after my fingers have a rest!
Kelly
Walking with a Goal and Penalty Yards
Walking with a goal is an exercise to help your dog learn that if there's somewhere he wants to go he can only get there on a loose lead. Using penalty yards at the beginning helps get the point across.
The "goal" can be anything visible that your dog wants to get to. When I demonstrate this in a class I take one of the dogs to a visible starting point (lined up with a cone) and have the owner and all the other dogs and owners congregate about 20 yards away. They are instructed to chat loudly, play with the dogs and feed lots of treats. Your goal could be Sage and your husband or a plate of treats or Luke's favorite toys on the sidewalk about 20 yards from your starting point. Just makes sure the pup is aware of the goal, can see it, and it's something he wants to approach.
Your starting point should be readily recognizable too, a spot that the dog can orient himself to in space. A step or porch is good. If on the sidewalk, something should clearly mark the spot like the edge of a driveway or a parked car or fire hydrant.
Set your dog up roughly in heel position sitting next to you at the starting point. Say, "Are you ready? Luke, let's go," and start off walking. As long as the leash is loose, use KGS (keep going signal). "Good let's go! What a good dog! Let's go, good boy!", etc. The instant the leash gets tight, "Ooops!" turn around and walk briskly back to the starting point. That's the penalty yards! Oh no! We got further away instead of closer! When you get there get the dog sitting next to you and start the same as before. Repeat.
You will find that the distance you can cover before the dog loses control and pulls gets longer each time. Dogs are individuals but I find that with most dogs it takes 5-10 minutes until they can go the whole 20 yards without pulling. When you are able to reach the goal without pulling, have a party! What we call a jackpot. Multiple treats, lot's of praise and happy talk, petting, special toys, etc. Make sure it lasts a good 20-30 seconds. (that's longer than you think!) If Sage or another dog is part of your goal make sure they enjoy the party too!
Once the dog starts to understand the program you can pretty much eliminate the penalty yards and just be a tree when the leash gets tight.
Using exercises like these and others you will learn from Stacy will develop what we like to call an "operant dog." Instead of a dog that learns to avoid the application of pain by doing what WE want, we develop a dog that learns to exercise self control in order to get what HE wants. He learns to operate (or manipulate) his environment. Stacy may give you, or may already have given you a reading list to learn more about operant conditioning. If not, I can send you some book suggestions if you want.
Kelly
© Kelly Randall 2003